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ฮาลองบก...สายน้ำ ผาหิน และหมู่บ้านปักผ้า |
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1. เช้าวันที่ฝนไม่ตก ท้องฟ้าปลอดโปร่งนั้นเราอยู่ในตำบลเล็กๆ ที่ชื่อว่า Hoa lu ในจังหวัดนินห์บิงห์ (Ninh Binh) ซึ่งห่างจากเมืองฮานอย 90 กิโลเมตรไปทางทิศใต้ เป็นสถานที่ท่องเที่ยวขึ้นชื่อหนึ่งในโปรแกรมเด่นตามแพ็คเกจทัวร์เวียดนามเหนือ เรากำลังรอลงเรือล่อง Tam Coc ที่ได้รับการขนานนามว่า ฮาลองบก เพราะธรรมชาติได้จัดวางภูเขาหินปูนขนาดน้อยใหญ่ เรียงรายสุดสายตา สลับพื้นที่ราบซึ่งกลายเป็นทุ่งนาสีเขียว มีแม่น้ำ Ngo Dong ไหลผ่านภูเขาและกัดเซาะจนเกิดเป็นถ้ำลอดถึง 3 ถ้ำ ทำให้เมืองชนบทแห่งนี้กลายเป็นสถานที่ท่องเที่ยวทางธรรมชาติที่หลายคนอยาก เดินทางมาเยือนสักครั้ง
ลุงรัก ไกด์อาวุโสชาวเวียดนามเล่าว่า ย้อนกลับไปสักพันปีก่อน ในคริสต์ศักราช 968 หลังจาก Dinh Bo Linh สถาปนาตัวเองขึ้นเป็นจักรพรรดิองค์แรกแห่งราชวงศ์ดิงห์ Hoa lu ซึ่งเป็นบ้านเกิดของพระองค์จึงกลายเป็นเมืองหลวงแห่งแรกของเวียดนามก่อนที่จะย้ายไปอยู่ที่ฮานอย 42 ปีต่อมา
เรือเคลื่อนตัวออกไปช้าๆ ตามสายน้ำสีมรกต ลอดใต้สะพาน มุ่งหน้าเข้าไปในหมู่ภูเขาหินปูนที่ตั้งขวางหน้า ทิ้งฝั่งเมืองชนบทไว้เบื้องหลัง ผ่านบ้านริมน้ำที่แต่ละหลังกำลังทำกิจกรรมยามเช้า ทั้งซักผ้า ล้างผัก ห่างจากบ้านเรือนลึกเข้าไปเรามองเห็นจุดขาวๆ บนหน้าผาหินตรงหน้า เหมือนมีการเคลื่อนไหวช้าๆ จนใกล้เข้าไปถึงมองเห็นว่ามันคือแพะสีขาวที่กำลังปีนป่ายผาหินอย่างหมิ่นเหม่น่าใจหาย มันกำลังจ้องมองตรงมาที่เรือเราอย่างสงสัย นี่กระมังแพะภูเขาในเมนูมื้อค่ำที่เรากินไปเมื่อวาน ฉันนึกว่าเป็นมุกของแกเสียอีก
การล่องเรือแต่ละรอบใช้เวลาประมาณ 2 ชั่วโมง ฉันว่าการใช้แรงคนแบบนี้ นอกจากช่วยประหยัดพลังงาน ยังทำให้เราสัมผัสธรรมชาติได้เต็มที่ ขณะเพลินกับทิวทัศน์รอบข้าง ฉันรู้สึกว่าเรือเคลื่อนตัวตรงไปเหมือนจะพุ่งเข้าชนภูเขาหินที่ตั้งขวางหน้า จนเข้าไปใกล้และลอดเข้าไปใต้ถ้ำแคบๆ นี่ล่ะไฮไลท์ของการเที่ยวฮาลองบก
ผ่านพ้นปากถ้ำเข้าไปในความมืด จนสายตาเริ่มปรับตัวจึงเริ่มมองเห็นผนังถ้ำว่าอยู่ใกล้จนเอื้อมมือถึง เรือล่องไปเรื่อยๆ สัมผัสอากาศเย็นยะเยือก น้ำหยดลงจากผนังถ้ำเป็นระยะ จนกระทั่งจุดสว่างเล็กๆ ของปากถ้ำอีกด้านเริ่มปรากฏ ฉันรู้สึกเหมือนเราโผล่ไปเยือนอีกโลก เป็นโลกธรรมชาติที่ไม่มีสิ่งแปลกปลอมจากโลกใหม่เข้าไปเจือปน
เรือล่องไปจนสุดทางถึงจุดวกกลับ เรือกระจาดนับสิบลำจอดรอขายขนม เครื่องดื่ม และดอกบัวที่เพิ่งเก็บมาจากแม่น้ำสายเดียวกัน เรือร้านสะดวกซื้อกลางน้ำเหล่านี้จะตามประกบเรือนักท่องเที่ยวชนิดลำต่อลำ หลังจากตั้งใจฟังภาษาอังกฤษแบบกระท่อนกระแท่น จึงเริ่มเข้าใจว่าเราควร (ต้อง) ซื้อน้ำให้คนพายเรือ เพราะดูเหมือนเรือเราไม่ยอมไปไหนเสียที ที่สุดฉันจ่ายค่าน้ำอัดลมไปสองกระป๋อง เรือจึงออกจากตลิ่งมุ่งหน้ากลับทางเดิม ผ่านพ้นถ้ำสุดท้ายถึงกลางทางเรือชะลอความเร็วอีกครั้ง ช้าจนเกือบหยุดนิ่ง ป้าคนพายวางพายลง เปิดหีบสังกะสีที่แบกลงเรือมาด้วย หยิบสินค้าผ้าปักออกมานำเสนอ ซึ่งมีทั้งชุดผ้าคลุมเตียง ปลอกหมอน ผ้าปูโต๊ะ ฯลฯ
2. เมื่อวานเย็นตอนมาถึงเมืองชนบทแห่งนี้ เราไปแวะที่วัดเก่าแก่ประจำราชวงศ์ ฉันยกกล้องขึ้นถ่ายภาพซุ้มประตูเก่าแก่ จังหวะเดียวกับที่คุณยายคนหนึ่งเดินสวนออกมา คุณยายหยุดตรงหน้าฉันยกมือขึ้นแบพร้อมบอกด้วยภาษาอังกฤษชัดถ้อยชัดคำ “เธอถ่ายภาพฉัน เธอต้องจ่ายมาหนึ่งดอลล่าร์” เป็นความประทับใจแรกด้านลบที่ทำให้เสน่ห์ของเมืองชนบทในโอบล้อมธรรมชาติบริสุทธิ์เหมือนภาพอุดมคติลดมนต์ขลังลงทันที ลุงรักอธิบายว่าเป็นเพราะนักท่องเที่ยวฝรั่งที่มาเยือนก่อนหน้าพอถ่ายภาพชาวบ้านเสร็จก็ชอบควักแบงค์ดอลล่าร์ให้ กลายเป็นความเคยชินไป
หลังจากกลับถึงที่พัก เก็บสัมภาระ เราเดินชมร้านรวงที่ขายพวกงานหัตถกรรมพื้นบ้านซึ่งอยู่ใกล้ๆ โรงแรม รอเวลาอาหารค่ำ จู่ๆ หญิงสาวร่างบางเดินมาเซย์ฮัลโหล ชวนฉันแวะไปชมสินค้าที่ร้านของเธอ ความไม่ไว้วางใจเจ้าบ้านที่สะสมมาตลอด 2-3 วัน เรื่องการฟันราคาสินค้าก่อตัวขึ้นในใจอีกครั้ง ฉันตั้งท่าเดินหนีแต่ก็เริ่มรู้สึกว่าด่วนปิดประตูตั้งแต่ยังไม่ทันได้ฟังความ จึงหยุดฟังเธอพูดจนจบ แม้ไม่แน่ใจนักแต่ก็ตัดสินใจเดินตามเธอไปที่ร้านซึ่งห่างประมาณ 10 ห้องแถว แล้วขณะที่หยุดยืนหน้าร้านลวดลายสีสันของผ้าปักพวกนั้นก็ดึงดูดให้ฉันเข้าไปข้างในเพื่อดูใกล้ๆ
Hui หญิงสาวร่างบางคนนั้นหยิบรูปปู่กับย่าออกมาให้ดู เธอเล่าว่าร้านนี้เป็นธุรกิจของครอบครัวเธอซึ่งประกอบด้วยคน 3 รุ่น ตั้งแต่ปู่-ย่า พ่อแม่ และพี่น้องเธออีก 9 คน ทุกๆ คนจะช่วยกันปักผ้าเป็นรายได้เลี้ยงสมาชิก 14 ชีวิตที่อยู่รวมกันในบ้านหลังเล็ก ฉันถามราคาถุงผ้าใบเล็กๆ ที่พอจะอุดหนุนซื้อหาเป็นของฝากได้ไม่ให้เสียน้ำใจ Hui บอกราคา ชิ้นละหนึ่งดอลลาร์ ส่วนกระเป๋าสะพายปักรูปสาวญวนในชุดอ๋าวหย๋ายใบละ 60 บาท ถูกกว่าราคาที่ฉันซื้อมาเมื่อวานจากตลาดนัดเมืองท่องเที่ยวที่อ่าวฮาลองหลัง ต่อรองอยู่นานสองนาน
เธอลดราคาถุงผ้าให้ในราคาสองชิ้นหนึ่งดอลลาร์ฯ และขอให้ฉันชวนเพื่อนๆ แวะมาเยี่ยมร้านเธอบ้าง เพื่อนหลายคนที่เริ่มทยอยกลับจากการปั่นจักรยาน เดินตามมาสมทบ หัวหน้าทริปเราสนใจชุดคลุมเตียงพร้อมปลอกหมอนผ้าลินิน แต่ต่อรองไม่ได้มากนัก Hui บอกขืนลดไปมากกว่านี้ปู่คงเล่นงานเธอแน่ แต่เลือดนักช้อปไทยยังไงก็ขอให้ได้ต่อรองสักหน่อยก็ยังดี ถึงรู้สึกว่าราคานั้นไม่ถือว่าแพงสำหรับเราเมื่อตีค่าให้งานฝีมือที่ต้องใช้ทั้งเวลาและความตั้งใจ
3. ราคาเปิดของผ้าปูโต๊ะที่ร้านค้าบนเรือกลางน้ำ ไม่ได้สูงกว่าราคาในร้าน Hui มากนัก แต่วิธีในการนำเสนอต่างหากที่ทำให้ฉันไม่อยากอุดหนุน หลังจากพยายามอธิบายว่าฉันไม่มีเงิน เงินด่องในกระเป๋าแค่ค่าทิปที่ต้องให้ตามธรรมเนียมเท่านั้น เธอหยุดชะงัก นำสินค้ากลับลงหีบทันที แต่การขายไม่ได้จบแค่นั้น เธอหยิบสินค้าชิ้นเล็กออกมาเสนอขายต่อ ฉันรู้สึกไม่ค่อยพอใจนักกับการช้อปปิ้งภาคบังคับแบบนี้
เรือเคลื่อนตัวอีกครั้งด้วยแรงขับเคลื่อนจากภาพผ้าปักชิ้นเล็กๆ ราคาสองดอลลาร์ เรากลายเป็นลำสุดท้ายที่ไปถึงฝั่ง ทั้งที่ออกตัวเป็นลำแรกๆ ขึ้นฝั่งได้เราแลกเปลี่ยนประสบการณ์ช้อปกลางน้ำอย่างขำๆ ฉันว่าการลงเรือก็เหมือนโชคชะตา เราไม่รู้ว่าจะเจอคนพายเรือแบบไหน เพราะเพื่อนบางคนไม่เห็นต้องซื้ออะไรสักชิ้น
ฉันเพิ่งรู้ว่านอกจากรายได้หลัก ทำนา ปักผ้า คนในหมู่บ้านจะถูกจัดสรรให้มาพายเรือรับนักท่องเที่ยวบ้านละครั้งต่อเดือน ค่าตอบแทนที่ได้เล็กน้อยมากเทียบกับหยาดเหงื่อ ดังนั้นธรรมเนียมที่นี่คือ แต่ละลำต้องจ่ายทิปให้คนพาย 50,000 ด่อง เป็นน้ำใจซึ่งส่วนนี้ชาวบ้านจะได้เต็มๆ ลุงรักเคยบอกว่าบ้านแต่ละหลังถึงดูเล็กๆ แต่ก็อยู่กันเป็นครอบครัวใหญ่ พอมีโอกาสหารายได้พิเศษหลายบ้านเลยขนผ้าปักใส่หีบแบกลงเรือมาด้วย
เพื่อนฉันบอกว่าสักวันรัฐบาลคงเข้ามาจัดการเรื่องท่องเที่ยวให้เป็นระเบียบกว่านี้ ขณะที่อยู่บนฝั่งหันกลับไปมองเรือที่จอดเทียบท่าอีกครั้ง ความรู้สึกด้านลบในใจกลับหายไป ฉันเริ่มเข้าใจในบางสิ่งว่าเราไม่ควรด่วนตัดสินอะไรจากเพียงแค่ภาพด้านเดียวที่มองเห็น โดยไม่ได้ทำความรู้จัก และเรื่องน่ารำคาญใจพวกนี้ก็ยังเล็กน้อยมากเมื่อเทียบกับภาพความสวยงามอย่างร้ายกาจของเมืองนั้น ฉันบอกตัวเองว่าต้องหาโอกาสกลับไปเยือนฮาลองบกอีกสักครั้ง
ข้อมูลเพิ่มเติม
- การเดินทางท่องเที่ยวฮาลองบกจะถูกบรรจุอยู่ในแพ็คเกจทัวร์เวียดนามเหนือเรียบร้อยแล้ว แต่สำหรับแบ็คแพ็คเกอร์ทั่วไปสามารถหาซื้อทัวร์ระยะสั้นจากตัวแทนท่องเที่ยวที่มีอยู่มากมายในฮานอย
- ปัจจุบัน 70 เปอร์เซ็นต์ของนักท่องเที่ยวที่มาเยือนเวียดนามเหนือ คือคนไทย ด้วยสัญชาตญาณนักช้อปฝังลึกในสายเลือด คนเวียดนามจึงคาดหวังมากกับการขายสินค้าให้คนไทย แหล่งท่องเที่ยวเริ่มรับเงินไทยและเจรจาราคาในภาษาไทยได้
- ถ้าอยากได้สินค้าประเภทงานหัตถกรรม ที่เมือง Hua lu ถือเป็นแหล่งผลิตที่น่าจับจ่ายมาก ราคาถูกกว่าเมืองท่องเที่ยวอื่น
- การเดินตลาดเช้าในเมืองชนบทเวียดนาม ไม่เหมือนชนบทบ้านเรา ก่อนเจรจาซื้อหาอะไร ให้เล็งดูก่อนว่าคนท้องถิ่นเขาควักเงินส่งให้แม่ค้ากันเท่าไหร่ ป้องกันการถูกฟันราคาจนเลือดสาด
- นินห์บิงห์ยังเป็นที่ตั้งของอุทยานแห่งชาติแห่งแรกของเวียดนามที่ชื่อว่า Cuc Phuong มีพรรณพืชอยู่กว่า 2 พันชนิด บนภูเขามีวัดเก่าแก่ที่มองเห็นได้เวลาล่องเรือ 22 ปีก่อนเงิน 12 ด่องแลกได้ 1 ดอลลาร์ฯ แต่ปีนี้คงตัวอยู่ที่ราวๆ 16,000 ด่อง ต่อ 1 ดอลลาร์ฯ
ที่มา : นิตยสาร SME Thailand ฉบับเดือนพฤศจิกายน 2551
เรื่อง : อรุษา กิตติวัฒน์ / ภาพ : ปิยชาติ ไตรถาวร, ณับพล ปาลกะวงศ์ |
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| ความคิดเห็นที่ 53
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